20 October 2017
SONG: Life Is A Highway by the Cars

BOOK: A Bondswoman’s Tale – One of the verrrrry few novels written by a true slave in the 1800’s. It follows my read of The Underground Railroad by Colin Whitehead, which won a Pulitzer. I did not feel it deserved it and would not recommend it. This new one however was bought from a collection found in a library – one of those attic collections that gets found!!!!. It is just an incredible and remarkable discovery and a powerful contribution to history and literature. More than anything it supports the power of writing “what we know.”

THOUGHT: It is all about the people. There are so many ways and places to walk 500 miles, but the most unique and valuable facet of the Camino Frances is the people. While I can become exhausted from walking, physically, I never imagined that I could come to the end of a day and say to myself “I do not have the energy to meet another inspirational, bright, interesting person!” 

Concluding my historic reporting on St James, I have gone back through my photos of the statuary and paintings that include him during my walk. My observations are that he was a vertically challenged (short) person, but the general population in the region here is also short…so he fit right in.

Teacher Mode

 Based on the images, he was not the breathtakingly handsome sort. And just based on casual clinical observations, he most likely had Graves Disease or some other thyroid disorder. He had some seriously protruding eyes and it is a characteristic not all the other sculpted and painted guys shared. I don’t think it was an artistic trend.

He had a teaching phase, a pilgrim-wanderer phase 

At Pons with Marie Helene. The WAY actually goes thru there

Full on pilgrim mode

Sometimes you like wearing pilgrim-like lamé

Shadow over the man

Napping outside the Parador in Leon. It was probably “Completo “

Thyroid issues notwithstanding, teaching pilgrim’s gotta teach

Gilted garbs…

Out in front of the Leon Parador. Apparently, they wouldn’t give him a room!

and in his miraculous resurrected-from-the-dead phase he had the slayer phase. I am including a series of pics because I know you are breathlessly awaiting and thirsting for such info in photo form.

And this is where your fame rests???? I’m just sayin’…..

At the personal level, I have been able to add on another day to my stay in the Albergue Arribada here in Muxia. Skipping the last two walks allowed me to get dropped off in the sweetest end to the trip and chance to recuperate. The small fishing village has mostly pilgrim traffic coming and going. There are landmarks and it is in fact the outermost reach of land into the Atlantic that curves into the point of James entry into the region. It has a fishing industry that probably contributes to some of its economic strength, but the Albergues and restaurants are able to do a lively trade.

In between

View from the top

Today’s lottery winner

Looking out from morning coffee

The one I am in is the most well thought out of all the ones I have stayed in. There is a privacy curtain on each bunk. It has a generous kitchen and sitting area and a washer and dryer (very important for the last stop before you head back into civilization and need to have clean stuff.) I do pity the customs officer that picks a pilgrim’s bag for a search when we each return home. The boots alone could level him/her. It is for me a personal, mean-spirited hope that mine will be excepted…it will make me smile.

The buildings in Muxia are quite modern construction and architecture. A few old remains of walls are around and the old churches have been preserved. There is an unusual little boulder hill, but I have no idea how it was formed or why it is there. A friend and I decided to walk it and followed a set of arrows that had apparently were designed for very young, fit boulderers or goats. We got half way up and decided it was not a good day to die and literally, crawled back down. As we headed around the end of it, we came upon a well set, even walkway that wound to the top and was being traveled by the buses full of would be pilgrims who at least like to see the end points of the Way, up close and personal. 

Lighthouse at work

My warm and comfy bunk

Sally on the safe side

Not the safe climbing side of the mountain

Not the modern construction

Re the thought on meeting interesting people: this is the quintessential element that defines the Camino as more than a walk. There is some representation of just about every kind of human being imaginable. All ages, nationalities, spiritualities, athletically (or not) motivated people around – what is not out here in them that does not demand some level of awe!  


14 October 2017 – Winding Down

SONG: Ordinary Love by U2       

BOOK: Started and finished Small Great Things by Jodi Picoult – a dense look at racism…a bit too much in some ways, but every point in some way, a truly legitimate issue.

THOUGHT: On NPR, I used to love the Swami Beyondananda and his wise words about how we look at doing “fasts” to cleanse our hearts and bodies. He was a much stronger supporter of doing “slows,” however and that is what I seem to be doing as I do these last days. 

END OF THE ROAD (Fin de la Tierra; Fin de la Route) This section of the walk is something of an add-on for most of the Pilgrims. You get your full on papers and certifications in Santiago for being a “true”pilgrim. If you walk all the way to Fisterre, you get another certificate…I Walked To The End Of The World papers.  I don’t get this one, because I took a bus AND a taxi…tsk!  But I’m on board for exploring it. 

As to the historic context and relationship to James’ (reason for the Camino) story and eventual sainthood, this is the point where his remains miraculously sailed back in from Rome, on a stone boat that was covered in scallop shells (giving them their place in the history and utilization in the pilgrimage.). It used to be that you got your shell once you arrived at Santiago and that was your verification once you got home, that you had actually finished the walk. Now you get shells whenever and you get papers at the end.

Story continues…assisted by good friends who thought he would like to be buried in Galicia in spite of his spectacular job failure in conversions here, an ignominious departure from Spain and his subsequent beheading by Herod on his return to Rome (being the zealous convert to Christianity that he was, Herod was not keeping him around!) they set his remains out in the stone boat which made it miraculously back to Fisterre. 

On arrival at this point however, the Gaelic governing body in Northern Spain at the time…a seemingly strong female-controlled community…let the bearers of the body know that he was not welcome there for burial. The queen told everyone clearly that if they did want a burial, it would have to happen at least 50 miles inland. So they headed inland and put him into the ground in what is now Santiago de Compostela…back then it was just a field of stars. 

 Not so much any more…refer to cathedral photos (previous blog post) and full on Catholic performance celebrations of the man who eventually rose up out of his grave to slay the Moors and get Christendom into its proper state of control. It was his way of redemption apparently from his miserable inability to convert folks on his initial try. In essence, this slaying thing was his do-over.

As for the current time and place in the Camino pilgrimage – Fisterre-Muxia Way – the intensity of the more interactive walk with other pilgrims, is less present. The physical demand is greater…the distances between stopping points is longer (more than 30km per stage; less well marked; fewer albergues in between.) Many decide not to do it. Many do a variation with the walking and the bus. I am in the latter group.

I took a bus to Muxia and set out immediately for Lires. It is the mid point between Muxia and Fisterre and I was planning to make Muxia my return point for departure back to Santiago for the trip home. 

Looking down to the sea from my albergue in Lires

Lires…mid point between Muxia and Fisterre along the outer northern coast of Galicia

Shopping for our supper in Lires. Very fresh!

 Lires is tiny but with a beautiful beach and a fresh water river that flows into it, with a biological co-mingling that is similar to the one we lived near in NJ. 

High tide

The walk between Muxia and Fisterre is mostly wooded and the tall pines have breaks that open out to views of the breaking sea. It makes it the true cathedral space I need. I have walked alone on these days and it has been delightful. There were a few points where I got 2k or so off the course, but I got re-directed by guys on tractors or ladies coming out of their gardens. 

Fisterre is a small harbor town and the fishing industry has a presence, but it looks like more of the boats in the mooring spaces are for shuttling tourists out into the bays during high season. 

Me and Gianni and the marina

Fisterre is also the official end point of it all – “0” km point marker. I walked up up to the physical site by myself the 2d day there and looked out from what has been everyone’s point of final reflection. Personally, I don’t think I could reflect on more than the fact that this was “it.”  Any profound awarenesses did not strike me.  Maybe one day there will be some light-up moment but right then it just seemed like a place to have cafe con lèche and the traditional shot of local liqueur – it was after all 11:00am. 


11 October, 2017Wishing for A Botafumerio

SONG: Alléluia – Any version will do but I love kd Lang’s best

BOOK: Finishing Stay With Me and it is a very well written and powerful story

THOUGHT: Whodathotit!

I got up, knowing I was heading into Santiago and would be there early enough in the day that I could find my Albergue and still get to the office to get my papers. Of course it was more convuluted than that…I was in Santiago long before I figured it out, and then of course my albergue was all the way across town and up a whole lot of stairs. It was one of those days for meeting a lot of people who did or did not know what I was saying, but did try to help keep me going towards my destination.

The hospitalière who welcomed me and signed me in when I finally arrived just put a huge dollop of love on top of everything with his really sweet welcome! I put my things in the lockers provided in the basement of the Monasterio Menor (which I think is still partially an operating monastery.) 

My digs for 2 nights in Santiago – Monasterio Menor

Everything’s in the locker. On to the Pilgrim’s office!

With many more directs and redirects, I got to the Pilgrim’s Office which is poorly marked and off the beaten path. I was not the only one to have the bad time…and sharing bad times is such a special thing!
It was 2 hours standing in line (much more painful than walking) before I arrived in front of the guy from Oregon who was volunteering for the week and making us, one by one, true and verified pilgrims.

He let me sneak this photo – normally not allowed

 I got two certifications and will be able to give one to Kim Nees and one to Mary Pieszko who now have more than a million steps banked for them to use whenever they need them! Lucy will get my Passport which will hopefully served as inspiration for her own adventures, however they take form. This will remind her that there always is A WAY!!!!!!

I ate fried calamari and had a most delicious glass of white wine to celebrate, and then made my way back to the albergue. I got completely lost, not once, but twice…so I circled Santiago almost 3 times in the same day…sad face emoji…

The next morning I headed back to the Cathedral center and the hope that there would be the giant incensing event with the Botifumiero that is so incredible. It is chance-y as it is only a guaranteed occurence on the high holy days and after that it is dependent on sponsorship by some group who is willing to pay for it…to the tune of $400 per event. There are groups that do sponsor it and my hope was for one to have done so for this very day…

Verifying my good seat

I got there early just to see the interior of the cathedral and got a nice seat in the general seating area. I was next to a Polish woman with a wheeled walker and she spoke a little English. We both agreed that we were truly excited.  

Well our hopes were met and tripled…someone pretty important was in town, as we got a High Mass, concellebrated by 24 priests and led by a Bishop/Cardinal…he actually had 2 hats and I was not sure which on was the higher ranking one. The little red silk cap I think trumped the bishops miter…so I am going for Cardinal. And very happily, the sponsoring important group had a full-on Bota…

Setting the incensor in motion

It takes seven guys to get this thing going

There’s a red silk beanie under that white hat…Cardinal? Bishop? Hmmmm??

I will try to attach the video but am not sure if that will work for the blog. Suffice it to say that I was a pretty happy pup and the Polish lady believed she was in fact in heaven. Since she had to go for her communion with her walker, the important folks let her sit in the front row for the Bota… Afterward, we had a heck of a hug…even if I had to go back to my regular seat for it. I had Grandma’s rosary out, sang in my best ever full alto voice and remembered the Latin (effectively mumbled what I was not sure of in a proper rhythm and tone).

All part of your everyday 500 mile walk!

Close to Santiago

8 October 2017
BOOK: Oh The Places You’ll Go by Dr Seuss – not currently reading it, but it is one I have thought about a lot on this trip

SONG: Being Here sung by Van Morrison – this one comes up often in my songlist and my heart. There are so many times in any given day when it feels like one or all of you are here with me in some way. It is a warm feeling of the highest order!

THOUGHT: I am just a country girl…

That country girl thing of mine is well-served in this walk. I have spent most of it in wooded areas…Oak and Chestnut forests, Eucalyptus forests, and even a spread of something wildly similar to the Pine Barrens in So Jersey. 

Scrub pine in the middle of a lot of scrub cedar…not a place for tall people to hide

Oak and Chestnut crazy beautiful

Eucalyptus forest

I have to go through cities, but quite a while ago I realized that staying in them was not optimal. I do make many more acquaintances however and have refined my torturous Spanish. I stop at least every block and sometimes twice on a long one to verify that I am still on the Camino. 

He’s my best guide…he knows!!!

Fortunately it is Sunday morning and the city is not “teeming” here in Arzua

 I know that “directo” means straight ahead, but does not always account for the slight forks that happen. Old people are the best in directions. They really know the Camino and have time to explain exactly how you need to go. I had one shop-keeper leave her store and walk me to the end of the block and around the corner onto a tidy little forked turn. She crossed the street to assure that I would not take the wrong direction and clapped me on the back, wished me a buen Camino and went on back to work.

 I am grateful for a small village where there are only 10 to 20 buildings. The choices are pretty obvious. Cow crossing signs replace the Yield signs. 

My kind of “city”

Happily, I was eating the pork! I had the street side table at the only restaurant in town

Heading home from a hard day at work, making milk…

 Traffic is a completely different set of issues…stepping in cow pies is occasionally difficult to avoid, depending on how many cows are on the move at one time.

They pass by my restaurant and I pass by theirs…fair enough

Best ever signage…no relationship to speed of any sort

I am in my albergue and settled. Wash is done and almost dry. Before dinner “saunter” is done and there are only 15 minutes before dinner starts being served. Tomorrow will be a long day, but Tuesday I will go into Santiago at around noon and I will get my papers issued, hope for the Botifumero mass (the huge swinging incensor) and I will spend a day just being in this very big city.  

After that I leave for the sea…the “end of the earth” which I will see from both Finisterre and Muxia. I have enough time to walk them both and still have a full day at each one. If I love the places enough to want to stay a bit longer, I will take the bus back to Santiago. 

PS:  At 5:30pm this evening, I hit my millionth step walking through a Euclayptus forest.  I was counting!  It looks like I still have another 250,000 upcoming.

Entering The Final Stage

6 October 2017

Book: Stay With Me by Ayobami Adebayo 

SONG: One More Hello, One More Goodbye by Kenny Rankin

THOUGHT: Every day has a Hello and a Good Bye in it and some are better than others…each one has touched me in some way and that is the realization that I think has made the deepest impression on me to this point…or at least that I can figure out when thinking about what I am doing.

Clearly, this is about walking. It is a sport. It is zen. It exhausts you. It stretches you. It inspires you. I love it for all of these reasons. I am moving to my millionth step in the next few days!

I have always avoided “crack-of-dawn” activities, but the most delightful moments in this trip have been just that.  Dawn is short lived and I still prefer the golden light of sunset, but on this trip I am generally headed to my bed just as sunset starts to creep in. 

Strange fire

Soft embracing light

The recent days since my last entry have been through mountains (not all that high, but they seem like it when you are on the way up – and likewise, when you are coming down.) Even when you think you just don’t even want to turn and look back, because you are too tired, you do and you see that you have been “down there,” you have gotten yourself “up here” and you are headed “down there” into a different place. 

The orange is Fall trees

There is a little village I left down there 4 hrs ago

Looking at clouds from both sides now

Top of Sarria in the Monastery of Magdalena

Wherever your bed is, you heave yourself onto it. You thank your lucky stars if you are on the bottom bunk. You really rejoice if last night’s snorer has decided to go further along and he is not in your dorm again. You realize that fit men snore rarely and chubby ones snore a lot. Women can snore like trucks, but generally they are a downgraded abrasive sound in contrast to their gender counterparts. 

Monastery dorm

Mine all mine for the night

Personal space has a new name

You wish the bathroom was not so far away when you know you will be getting up 2 – 3 times in the night. Those little bags of absorbent pellets I found on line have been a treasure, well worth the weight they put into my pack. But there is a strategy to getting into the secret stance, etc., and it does take some thought and planning. No corresponding photographs will be included.

And I am now in the last “leg” of the journey. I entered Sarria 2 days ago and from here to the arrival in Santiago is the defining activity for getting the actual certificate of completion – The final 100km. With the convergence of all the other Caminos in Sarria, the number of pilgrims has increased significantly. 

I dreamed this one

My walks take me thru clouds and fog and I feel like I am in a story

While this is still an energizing time, I think that getting to the Fisterre section to bring me back to the feeling I get in these small villages with low-volume traffic. It is just so peaceful. 

The sweetest breakfast stop ever

O Cebriero – our highest point

My incredible world for moment or two

All the wild animals

And since I left off several days from the middle section – the Meseta – which is a flat, repetitive part, I will have time to walk from Santiago to Fisterre and Muxia which are the outer limits of the journey. I will arrive at the Atlantic ocean on the northwestern coast of Spain. If I am really lucky it will not rain. I have a real feeling that it will be one of the highlights…but I won’t know that until I get there…I am still here, on a chilly evening, with my jacket on and Fall colors in the trees.